Driving South West of Matera, as you approach the North Eastern tip of Calabria, the Ionian coastline welcomes you with open arms. To your left, the crashing waves of pure white, fragment across the sea of sparkling teal. To your right, the winding road between underbrush and countless citrus groves are pure joy. Overwhelmed, my eyes are filled with tears and my heart heavy with bittersweet sadness. Calabria the forgotten region amongst even Italians; ridiculed, mocked and in a world of its own, held back by emigration and lack of regional support. In the shadow of the rest of Italy, its troubles of political past and present were not enough to keep me away as I embraced my first of 3 weeks in this Mediterranean wonder. A region so lush, rich, an untouched beauty and bounty of life- what an absolute shame at the very low amount of people having actually traveled to this area in the far south of Italy. With a little extra effort and planning, an exceptional experience in Calabria can be realized in this extraordinary, off the beaten path paradise.
Getting to Calabria can be accomplished both by car and airplane, depending on where you are departing from. By plane, the main cities to fly to are Reggio Calabria (which is the bigger and more accessible airport and Lamezia Terme being the next in size). Flying from Rome to either is about 1 hour and 10 mins, with Milan coming in second at the shortest time flights and the best rates. Car rental options are plenty in both cities and this is really an indispensable part of the Calabrian experience. As this region is a bit wild and untouched, it is not built on chauffeured wine and travel tours. You can easily take a train to the main cities and find public transportation though they are not running around the clock, and thus reaching secret beaches and wine destinations will not be easy or timely without a vehicle. Coming from other cities such as Naples, Bari, Potenza, or Matera, your best bet for time, budget and your enjoyment is to soak in your surroundings from behind the driver’s seat.
Calabrian wine production has a long history in the region, thought by many to be the first in Italy. It has the 4th smallest production in Italy followed by Basilicata, Liguria and Valle D’Aosta at just under 300 thousand hectolitres per year. Only 0.2 % of Italy’s total wine production comes from Calabria yet the spectrum of high quality, diverse wines from distinctive varieties unique to this region are startling and just waiting for you to explore. Unfortunately much of the production doesn’t see itself on a wide global reach in the export markets, though it makes coming here even more special.
More than 90% of Calabrian wine is red, with Gaglioppo making up over half of this percentage. Famed locally and abroad for its long tradition in the production of Ciro from which the city also takes it name, this is usually what comes to mind when thinking Calabrian wine. Greco Bianco, the most planted white, which is also known as Malvasia di Lipari and Malvasia di Sardegna; makes some fantastic examples of both dry and sweet styles. Stelitano, Ceratti and Cantine Luca are go to names when looking to snag a bottle.
On your journey South you will find yourself among the awestruckingly beautiful hilltop towns that line the way as you approach the Northern part of the region. Rocca Imperiale is famous for being the city of lemons and are even exported to other parts of Italy for their vibrancy of flavor. The maze of small pathways between the homes atop this cliff are so charming and worth the priceless views that go with it. Plan your day trips during opening hours of 9 to 1 and 3 or 5 to 7 to avoid closures, as will be in most small towns. Oriolo is gaining in the distance, as just the view of this cliff perched town is enough to stop you in your tracks. This quiet village has a historic castle and an outside amphitheater used for plays and musical concerts during the summer months. Soon we find Civita, the fairytale like charm of being in a storybook, meets real life. This town has it all. Medival homes, bridges, shops, local wine, a lively square, restaurants; the perfect place to spend a quiet night and enjoy the company of warm, welcoming locals. Spend a few evenings in “Il Comignolo di Sofia” a bnb hosted by Stefania and her daughter Sofia. Stefania is the most wonderful host. She welcomes you into her home like family yet respects your privacy to the fullest. In your roof top apartment you have access to a private balcony with a view above the city. In town you can dine at L’Antico Ulivo just steps from your stay or the humble and delicious Kamastra Gastronomia Ristorante just a 2 minute walk away. You can shop for local products, see the historic sights and even try the village wine by Carlomagno.
Heading back town towards the Ionian coastline you find the land of Ciro. Ciro takes its name from the ancient medival village high above the coast you can still visit today, which has some of the most beautiful views around. The newer, more populous area is Ciro Marina where you will also find the majority of the wineries in this area. Librandi is a must see, a long standing, well respected, quality focused, family winery that helped put Ciro on the map with their dedication and award winning wines over the past few decades. Francesco Scala is keeping up with tradition in his family winery here and Francesco di Franco is admirable in his tastefully crafted, sustainable wines. Together with his wife Laura they form ‘A Vita’ and are making a Ciro Revolution in the way Calabrian wines are viewed, enjoyed and how the land is one with every sip of their wines. Nearby Cataldo Calabretta leaves nothing to hide in his raw, outspoken and down to earth wines that speak of grit, history and hands off winemaking in harmony with nature and with respect to his forthfathers. In agreement, they both emphasize the importance of Ciro as traditionally a rose wine. Not over extracted, but done with restraint in a manner that reflects the character of Gaglioppo with authenticity and to best converse with the local cuisine seamlessly. This style is starting to gain ground as the appreciation for the ‘less is more’ theory resurges. Sergio Arcuri is a small and dedicated producer with really special wines. Classy and focused, yet quintessentially Gaglioppo they show the potential this extraordinary region has to offer. For lunch there is a great little bistro right in Ciro Marina called A Casalura. Chef Giuseppe Pucci creates dishes with freshness and flavor with a taste for the region. You can’t leave without trying his sardines and fennel pasta!
To sleep in a quiet town 10 mins away, you can’t beat the air bnb of Eleonora in the village of Crucoli. This area is also part of the wine production designation and the warm demeanor of the locals is unmatched. Eleonora and her family waited for me with a bottle of wine and charcuterie; in the most tastefully done and clean medival cottage I have stayed in. The view of sunrise from her home is the best I have ever seen in my life. Don’t wait, just go!
A short 15 min drive away from the coast you find the area of Torre Melissa and Strongoli which is another important wine region of the Ionian coast. Roberto Ceraudo, his daughter Suzy and family are doing some amazing things here and the wines speak for themselves. Names with deep family meaning intertwined with historical importance, the wines are elegant and timeless. Gaglioppo is the usual suspect, along with Greco Nero, Magliocco Canino, Pecorello, Mantonico, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The family also crafts other amazing local products from the numerous olive, fruit and nut groves they have and a rare passito Doro Be produced in small quantities that is available at their Michelin Starred Ristorante Datillo onsite. With the completion of their boutique wine apartments it is also possible to extend your stay into the full experience.
Heading away from the coast you approach the small town of Santa Severina, worth a stop for exploring if you have the time. Approaching the National Park of Sila, the cascading hillsides and craggy mountain tops adorned with wildflowers will leave you surely without words. Gentle slopes of purple and pink clover, yellow daisies, lavender, sweet peas, and poppies transport you to another planet in the splendor of its sight. Calabria shines alone in the beauty pageant of Italy’s regions. Mother Nature’s eye candy also takes up space surrounding meadows and every roadway, which has much lower speed limits than in its northerly neighbor’s. There are also no toll fees on the autostrada, so take your time ‘con calma’ in Italian and record these views via memory bank; almost only visible en route.
As you move past through the capital’s Catanzaro down to Soverato along the coast you find yourself submersed in the Jasmine coast of white sand beaches, open spaces and beautiful beaches and towns. Through Calabria’s arch and toe there are plenty of historic cities to add to your wish list: Stilo, Bianco, Gerace, and Bora right before reaching Pentidattilo. This old Greek town meaning 5 hands has unimaginable views from both the parking across the town (it must be reached by foot) and within its medival walls. The scent of bergamot fills the air as this area is world renowned for this bitter citrus and everything under the sun can be purchased here. There is even an air bnb by Rossella overlooking the mountain drop and ocean side if you would like to stay and explore the many hikes and trails near by. The National Park of Aspromonte fills out the inside portion between Reggio Calabria and is perfect for skiing and snowboarding during the winter months and exploring peaks on foot in the summer months.
Coming up the West Coast, Reggio Calabria kisses the Messina Strait as the most populous city of the region with stunning views of Sicily, seemingly within an arms length. It’s Lungomare promenade along with coastline is the region’s finest and begs for a day of long walks and snap shots. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Reggio Calabria Museo Nazionale where you can view precious historic artifacts such as the Riace Bronzes and the marble head of Apollo. Those itching to get some shopping in can find plenty of bargains to be had down the strip of Corso Garibaldi.
A short drive North is the fishing village of Scilla (pronounced She-la). A once kept secret hideaway, this little gem is quickly becoming a visitor’s hot spot with its unmatched seafood, sparkling clean beaches and stone rows of homes along the shore.
Tropea is surely a bucket list item for many beach (spiaggia) seekers and for good reason. This ancient village is perched high up on a cliff overlooking the surreal sea of piercing reflections; intertwining green and blue with bathtub temperatures even in April’s late. The town itself can be seen in a day of exploring through the ancient walls, crooks and crannies, with places to shop and eat in the dozens. Le Volpe e L’uva is a cute quant little spot among the winding roads to enjoy some rustic fare tucked away from the tourist lined main way. There are only 4 or so tables so be sure to go early. Towards the sea, a long staircase leads you to shore when you will find the Santuario di Santa Maria dell’ Isola di Tropea. This Byzantine style monastery from the Middle Ages, rises high above on a rock jetting out from the sea towards the town, the very symbol of Tropea.
To stay, just 3 minutes to the south along the shore is the boutique hotel of Rocca della Sena. Minimalist and unfussy yet ahead of your every possible need, the staff here are impeccable. Feelings of luxury and ease make your time here of every possible comfort. With only 15 rooms, book ahead of time and splurge on the ocean view suite. With a huge balcony and jacuzzi tub overlooking the sea, the island of Vulcano and it’s million dollar sunsets, life is complete. The hotel is equipped with a private wine cellar from locally sourced bottles, from other parts of Italy and with classical selections from across the globe there is sure to be something to suit your palate. With an outdoor pool, fitness area and terrace there is no need to wander far.
Leaving is not easy, but with more adventures heading your way the thirst for new always follows. To find some quiet time away from the populous beaches of Tropea, the small nearby village of Marina di Zambrone has jaw dropping private areas for swimming, sightseeing and just enjoying life. A short drive North you find the town of Pizzo to the North and Capo Vaticano to the South; this area between Tropea is comprised of the Coast of the Gods (La Costa degli Dei).
Immediately to your east is the Regional Park of Serre, given much less hype than the other parks but absolutely worth the drive and stay. Only 40 mins away and higher in elevation, the town of Serra San Bruno is a refreshing change from the warmer seaside. The famous restaurant Zenzero is tucked away just right of the city square off via Roma and the service and dishes are unmatched. There are so many great places to window shop and many local foods to try at your fingertips. With 10 churches and museums, 2 popes have come from this historically important town within the forest. This park is known for its hiking and excursions so you must stay in one of Mario’s bnb’s. Above his shop ‘Punto 1’, immediately to your right after the rotary into the town street you find his store. He is the president of the hiking association and can guide you on any type of experience you so seek. His apartments are styled of special belongings from a centurys’ past with exposed brick and everything is within a few minutes walk. With food vouchers, welcome gifts, location and hospitality- it cannot be beat.
North of Serre we pass Lamezia Terme and the city of Cosenza. Cosenza is worth the stop for its charming city of art, culture and a bustling city of young people and a newer generation. The university is located here as well as shopping, nightlife and all the modern conveniences.
Making our way back up to the National Pollino Park (Italy’s largest protected area) you will find yourself in the heart of the wine production here. While Calabrian history and culture is a mergance of Greek, Spanish, Arabic and Norman civilizations of the past, this Northern area holds onto a unique Albanian heritage still present in the regions dialect and customs. Near the beautiful town of Altomonte you find the family winery of Farneto del Principe. Brother duo Francesco and Giulio now run this estate started by their father 20 years ago; crafting organic wines of precision, poise and soul that are a voice of their unique area. Malvasia, Montonico, Guarnacca, Castiglione, Magliocco Dolce and Calabrese (Nero D’Avola) are the stars here among the owners warm, honest and caring demeanor. It is possible to enjoy a tour with them through the vineyards by quad followed by a tasting experience at the winery. 15 minutes away you will find the perfect place to stay during your winery visits of the North. Tenute Pacelli is a small family owned winery of a husband and wife team (Francesco and Clara) with their 2 daughters (Carla and Laura). Crafting characterful wines of both local varieties such as Magliocco Dolce and international ones such as their metodo classico Riesling. Francesco and Clara are the most warm lovely people. As hosts, they welcome you to stay in one of a few apartments they have converted for guests in their winery overlooking the vineyard. You can enjoy dinner and some laughs as you discover the family history and enjoy the tasting of their wines.
A few short minutes away you will find the Natural wine king of Pollino, Dino Briglio Nigro of L’acino. Coming not from a wine background but one of a historian; a strong backbone, curious vision and a rebellious sense of humor, his wines are cool, calm, coaxing and captivating. He is the only producer to be experimenting with Mulberry tree barrels in aging his wines, often on their skins and this wider type of grain allows for greater flow of oxygen. He crafts fresh and expressive examples from local and non native varieties: Guarnacca Nera, Magliocco Dolce, Calabrese, Barbera, Montonico and Trebbiano among others. There is a method to his madness and the wines are pure fun and pure magic.
Last on our wine path takes you up a winding road to the stunningly beautiful town of Seracena and it’s surroundings. The land of Moscato di Seracena and the home to Cantine Luigi Viola. At a production of only 15,000 bottles per year this small family winery is making serious wines and keeping tradition and preservation of their specific style of wine very much alive. The crown jewel their line is the Passito, that comprises of Guarnaccia, Malvasia, Moscato Bianco and Duraca (Zibbibo clone) and it does not disappoint. Notes of chestnut honey, floral pollen, star anise, orange blossom, yellow cherries, almond skins and raisin cookies; each vintage is spoken in a language it’s own with a tale of the time and it’s translation today. They produce still wines just as stunningly beautiful as their passito and their warm hospitality is no different. With scarce availability, this special family is worth the visit to experience and appreciate their perfection at hand.
During your time in the far South or (Mezzogiorno) there are a vast array of unique regional dishes to be enjoyed. Peperoncino and its numerous forms of chili oil along with Nduja, are two of the most well known and widely available specialties. A spicy spreadable sausage comprised of pork meat, fat, chilies, red peppers, salt and spices- Nduja can accompany anything from bread to pasta. Tropea is world renowned for its sweet red onions which can be enjoyed in countless dishes, as a soup, canned or made into jam. It matches perfectly with the local cheese of Sheep’s milk pecorino or Caciocavallo from the Sila Mountains. Chickpeas and fava beans are common in many dishes as is the flavoring and use of fennel, anise and licorice. Eggplants, tomatoes and fresh produce are easily available along with every kind of citrus fruit. Swordfish, sardines, tuna, red mullet and anchovies are the specialties of the sea.
As you head West, you will find the beautiful seaside towns of Diamanté, Scalea and Praia A Mare as you make your way towards your exit of Calabria. The small Island (Isola Dino) just off the coast is worth the visit for its spectacular caves right off the water of Grotta Azzurra and Grotta Del Leone. The Arcomagno beach just up from Scalea is spectacular among this Citron Riviera of Calabria’s North West end.
Between the shores of Calabria is a land of remarkable beauty and great contrasts between seas, mountains, canyons, peaks, caves, lakes, forests, and vineyards. Remote and isolated, a kaleidoscope of cities and experiences are waiting to be had. Situated in the heart of culture, history, untouched and untapped wine potential with the wealth and enviable allure of the Mediterranean, you couldn’t possibly ask for more. Once forgotten, it’s the people behind this place and those seeking adventure and simplicity that breathe new life and discovery into a place resurrected from long ago.
My Calabria wine and travel guide for decanter can be found here:
https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/calabria-travel-guide-481664/
